Buenos Aires  ---   15 to 17 Jan 2006
Led by our excellent guide, Carla, we went on a morning bus tour of Buenos Aires.  It is a city with
modern high buildings, some wide Paris-like boulevards, well-tended parks, and many fine shops and
restaurants;  very much like the leading cities in western Europe.  Our first guided visit was to the
Cathedral, a large romanesque structure.  Later we stopped in the tourist-oriented Boca District,
reputedly birthplace of the tango and an area which is trying to retain its bohemian reputation;  low
buildings brightly painted, offbeat sculptures, old-fashioned paving-block streets,  restaurants, bars,
and nightclubs.  We drove by the Casa Rosada, the Presidential Palace.
Cathedral interior, Buenos Aires
Avenida 9 de Julio, one of Buenos Aires' main boulevards
A Boca balcony scene with Eva Peron, Carlos
Gardel, and a character we do not know
Colorful buildings in the Boca district, Buenos Aires
In the afternoon we two took an interesting walk for the full length of Calle Florida and stopped for
coffee at the  old well-known
Café Tortoni, decorated as it was a century ago.
TheTortoni Café, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tourists with Borges, Carlos Gardel, and madam X
In the evening the tour provided us with an excellent traditional Argentinian dinner and great tango
show at
El Viejo Almacen.  We got back to the hotel around midnight after a wonderful evening.
A musical quartet at "El Viejo Almacen", Buenos Aires
Tango dancers at "El Viejo Almacen", Buenos Aires
Most of the following day was spent by us at  "Estancia Susana" a cattle/tourist ranch about an hour
northwest of Buenos Aires.  At least it normally would have been an hour but it took us 2.5 hours to
reach the ranch because of a tremendous traffic jam caused by the reconstruction of a highway
overpass; hoping to get around at least part of the jam an increasing number of vehicles (including our
bus) started by driving on the right shoulder, then on the left shoulder, then ducking into and out of
the traffic lane coming from the opposite direction.  
At Estancia Susana our visit started in a large dining hall with waiters in gaucho attire serving an
unlimited lunch featuring beef, salads, beer and wine.  Then there was a show starting with gauchos
doing rope tricks with the Argentine version of the lasso.   This was followed by song and dance
performances, principally the tango.  After that our group went outside to watch demonstrations of
gaucho horsemanship, especially riding at full speed while trying to spear a small suspended ring.    The
final "act" was offering everyone the choice of a short ride on horseback or riding in an open
horse-drawn carriage.   A very enjoyable day.
Gaucho rope trick  performance at "Estancia Susana"
Lunch at "Estancia Susana" near Buenos Aires, Argentina
Preparing rings for the "gaucho
spear the ring" demonstrations
Horses at "Estancia Susana", Argentina
In the evening Virginia and I had another stroll down Calle Florida, watching the tango performers,
sword swallowers, clowns, and magicians.  We also visited interesting art galleries in the Galerias
Pacifico  shopping center on Calle Florida; one exhibit was a very large collection of Beatles
memorabilia, claimed to be the world's largest.
Ceiling paintings in the Galerias Del
Pacifico, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Beatle exhibit in the art galleries of Galerias Del Pacifico, Buenos
Aires.  Who is the fifth Beatle?
Next day Virginia and I were on our own.  We walked to the "Teatro Colon" opera house and went on a
disappointing "behind the scenes" tour which showed us costumes and scenery used in various opera
productions, but omitted other features such as the large stage whose various sections can be raised,
lowered and rotated.  The building, when built around 1900 in the style of European opera houses was
the height of luxury, but now shows signs of poor maintenance.
Without prior notice we tried  to meet with Argentine friends with whom we had a very close business
and personal relationship several decades ago but with whom we had been out of touch for years.  
Unfortunately our efforts to contact them were unsuccessful.
In the evening we went to the Cultural Center at Galerias Pacifico and at the theater there enjoyed a
great one-man show by Ruben Celiberti , assisted by a female dancer.  He is a very skilled and
talented dancer, singer, pianist, acrobat, etc.   He has performed in other countries, including the
United States.