Hampi Bazaar 24 to 30 January 2008
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We stayed six days in Hampi Bazaar, the village which served as our base for explorations
of the surrounding Hampi archaeological area and excursions to nearby villages. On this
page we shall limit ourselves to the village of Hampi Bazaar and use a separate page to
describe and illustrate our visit to the Hampi archaeological area and village excursions.
Hampi Bazaar consists almost exclusively of guest houses, restaurants, shops, and other
facilities providing services to visitors. Hampi Bazaar has one very wide main avenue built
in ancient times, while a network of small roads serves the other parts of the village.
Buildings are one to four stories high, made of stone. There are dozens of guest houses but
we saw no modern hotels. Motorized vehicles are not permitted in Hampi Bazaar, making it
a great place for walking.
We were told that about fifty chartered buses come to Hampi Bazaar daily, most carrying
Indian pilgrims and maybe a few with Indian tourists. We saw many European and
Australian independent budget travelers but no foreign tour groups or Americans.
In the heart of Hampi Bazaar is a very important archaeological feature, the impressive
Virupacksha Temple, built in 1442. The temple complex includes a high nine-story tower,
several religiously important shrines, a smaller tower, and a holy water tank. The temple is
in constant use and is an important destination for pilgrims from many parts of India. We
almost always saw a line of pilgrims, many with token gifts of food for the Gods and priests,
visiting the shrines and getting blessed. Below are a few views of the Virupaksha Temple.
Virupacksha Temple tower at the end
of Hampi Bazaar's Main Avenue.
Virupaksha Temple tower
seen from our guest house.
The holy tank at Virupacksha Temple,
used for some ceremonies..
Virupacksha Temple tower
viewed from a nearby hill.
The next three photos were taken along Hampi Bazaar's main avenue.
A group gathered in front of the Virupacksha Temple. The baskets with
flowers, coconuts and other foods are sold for use as temple offerings.
A group of women visitors.
Street scene.
Open air restaurant where we had many meals.
Same restaurant, different angle.
Some other Hampi Bazaar scenes.
Part of Humpi Bazaar's bus terminal viewed
from the roof of the Rahul Guest House.
Close-up of building in photo to the left. Ancient
columned buildings adjacent to the bus terminal,
expanded by contemporary shacks..
You might be interested in seeing where and how we lived in Hampi Bazaar. We were
pleased with our stay in the Rahul Guest House for Rs. 600 (US$16) per night.
Rahul Guest House, where we
lived while in Hampi Bazaar.
The bus terminal is just a
minute or two down the street.
A view down our street., parallel to the main road, one block
away. The signs identify travel agents, money changers, guest
houses, internet cafes, and other travel services.
Our room at the Rahul Guest House. Good
cross-ventilation, ceiling fan, clean tile floor,
mosquito net but not many mosquitos.
Room decoration. Hindu Gods, with
Ganesh in the center.
Above are the two ends of our attached bathroom. The washbasin drains down the pipe which goes
around the walls and ends at a floor drain near the toilet shown in the right photo above. No running hot
water and no shower, but when requested the guesthouse fills the green bucket with hot water for
bathing. What we missed most at the Rahul Guest House was a shower with running hot water.
One evening we had a pleasant talk with Stephen Kerwick, an Australian staying at our hotel.
Among the topics discussed was "Shantaram" by Gregory David Roberts, a book Stephen had
just read and recommended highly. He very kindly gave us his copy. Condensing 936 pages
to one sentence, it is the story of an Australian who escaped prison and fled to India, where
he lived in a Mumbai slum and set up a health clinic, became involved in Indian organized
crime,and served time in an Indian prison. We were fascinated by this insightful paperback
book but found it thick and heavy, difficult to hold while reading. We therefore carefully
slit the spine to divide the book into five separate easy-to-hold parts, which also enabled
Virginia and me to read different parts of the book at the same time, Virginia constantly
keeping her reading ahead of mine. Then we decided that the whole 1236-page Lonely Planet
guidebook was too much to constantly carry around; so we cut the spine at page 765 to
separate the last part of that book, the only part we needed for this trip.
After the noise and heavy traffic of Mumbai, Aurangabad, and Hyderabad we really
enjoyed the relaxing atmosphere of Hampi Bazaar. No cars or buses in the central part of
the village, pleasant walks along the river and among the many nearby ancient temples and
shrines. Also many good restaurants and a wide choice of guesthouses. No rain while we
were in Hampi; comfortable temperatures except occasionally when in the noonday sun.