Haridwar
23 & 24 January 2003
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We checked out of our hotel in Rishikesh and with two porters walked over the pedestrian
bridge, then by motorickshaw to the Rishikesh bus station to take the one-hour bus to
Haridwar. Haridwar is one of India's seven holiest towns and plays an important part in
several Hindu legends.
Upon arrival in Haridwar we checked into the Rahi Motel, a stark building seemingly made of
poured concrete, and walked to the nearby railway station to buy tickets, class "AC-2", for
the next day's train to Gwalior.
At dusk we went to Hari-Ki-Pari Ghat for the nightly Ganga Arati religious ceremony honoring
Lord Krishna on the banks of the Ganges. Hundreds (maybe thousands) of pilgrims, priests,
and many kinds of holy men, much chanting, drumming and gonging. We and many other
participants bought little floats with lighted candles which we launched in the Ganges to wash
our sins away. It was a sight to see hundreds of little lights floating down the Ganges.
Next morning we checked out of the Rahi Motel and walked to the Haridwar railway station
for our train scheduled to leave Haridwar at 7:35am. Again three hours passed before the
delayed train arrived at our station. As is often the case in India, while waiting we had some
trouble trying to learn when our train would finally arrive, on which track, and where on the
usually long train our car will be located, but we never missed a train.
In India our long reserved train rides generally were in class "AC-2" or "AC-3",
air-conditioned cars with seats convertible at night into double-decker or triple-decker bunks
(in compartments for four or six passengers), each bunk supplied with two sheets, a blanket, a
pillow, and a towel. A comfortable way to travel and an opportunity to speak with Indian
fellow travelers.
In our train compartment we met a gentleman who was returning home from Haridwar, where
he had gone for the cremation of his mother. Many Indians go to Haridwar to die in that
very holy city.