| Cruise from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang - Dec 7 & 8 |
The owner of the Thaveesinh Hotel, from whom we had bought our tickets for the boat ride from
Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, told us the boat usually left between 9:00am and 10:00am; others said
the boat left whenever they got a full passenger load; still others reported that the boats left
around 10:00am to 11:00am. We paid 750 Thai baht (US$19) for each of us for the two=day trip.
We wanted to avoid missing the boat and hoped to get choice seats, so we got to the boat landing a
few minutes before 9:00am and were among the first passengers to arrive.
Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, told us the boat usually left between 9:00am and 10:00am; others said
the boat left whenever they got a full passenger load; still others reported that the boats left
around 10:00am to 11:00am. We paid 750 Thai baht (US$19) for each of us for the two=day trip.
We wanted to avoid missing the boat and hoped to get choice seats, so we got to the boat landing a
few minutes before 9:00am and were among the first passengers to arrive.
Because the boat staff and the Lao passengers spoke no English, while none of the foreign passengers
could speak Lao, there was no communication regarding departure time; but as time went by more and
more passengers arrived at the boat we all assumed that when we got a full boatload we would sail
away. Shortly before noon someone announced in English that there were over a hundred passengers
on our boat, which was permitted to carry no more than seventy; at least thirty volunteer passengers
were invited to transfer to a second boat, which some did. Because we had what we considered good
seats we stayed on our boat, which started moving down the Mekong about noon.
could speak Lao, there was no communication regarding departure time; but as time went by more and
more passengers arrived at the boat we all assumed that when we got a full boatload we would sail
away. Shortly before noon someone announced in English that there were over a hundred passengers
on our boat, which was permitted to carry no more than seventy; at least thirty volunteer passengers
were invited to transfer to a second boat, which some did. Because we had what we considered good
seats we stayed on our boat, which started moving down the Mekong about noon.
Our boat was a typical Lao Mekong river boat. The cargo version has a roof and enclosed sides; the
passenger version is roofed but has open sides (continuous open windows) which can be closed by
rolling down tarp-like curtains for protection from rain, sun, or cool breezes. Small wooden benches
on each side of the center aisle seat two passengers. The wooden benches seemed to get harder the
longer you sat on them; a few passengers brought cushions while we and most others used our sweaters
or jackets as cushioning. Passenger luggage (mostly backpacks) were piled in a small storage area
behind the engine compartment. At least 90% of the passengers were foreigners twenty to thirty
years old, nearly all Europeans or Australians/NewZealanders, all speaking excellent English
regardless of nationality. We had several interesting conversations with our fellow passengers.
There was really no communication between passengers and crew as the latter seemed to know no
English..
passenger version is roofed but has open sides (continuous open windows) which can be closed by
rolling down tarp-like curtains for protection from rain, sun, or cool breezes. Small wooden benches
on each side of the center aisle seat two passengers. The wooden benches seemed to get harder the
longer you sat on them; a few passengers brought cushions while we and most others used our sweaters
or jackets as cushioning. Passenger luggage (mostly backpacks) were piled in a small storage area
behind the engine compartment. At least 90% of the passengers were foreigners twenty to thirty
years old, nearly all Europeans or Australians/NewZealanders, all speaking excellent English
regardless of nationality. We had several interesting conversations with our fellow passengers.
There was really no communication between passengers and crew as the latter seemed to know no
English..
Exterior of a Mekong passenger boat similar to ours.
Interior of our Mekong passenger boat.
Early morning mist on the banks of the Mekong
Lao village on the Mekong.
Cargo boats at Pak Beng
Cruising down the Mekong
The boat moved along at what I guess was about 10mph (15kph). The scenery was wonderful, mostly
wooded hills, a few cultivated patches, and occasional small villages. We had pretty good visibility
from our seats but the boat had no open decks and we were not permitted to get on the roof. We
were told that a few years ago when foreigners started using Lao river boats the boat operators
continued to think of themselves primarily as cargo boat operators and viewed the new passenger
traffic as a minor sideline and did little to adjust to that new part of the business. The boat
operators (apparently a union, co-op or tight association) delay the boat's departure until the number
of passengers has reached the boat's maximum capacity. Then an additional boat was put into service,
and probably additional boats if and when passengers showed up. The operation was run very poorly,
but could be much improved if the operators had someone who enough English to keep passengers
informed.
wooded hills, a few cultivated patches, and occasional small villages. We had pretty good visibility
from our seats but the boat had no open decks and we were not permitted to get on the roof. We
were told that a few years ago when foreigners started using Lao river boats the boat operators
continued to think of themselves primarily as cargo boat operators and viewed the new passenger
traffic as a minor sideline and did little to adjust to that new part of the business. The boat
operators (apparently a union, co-op or tight association) delay the boat's departure until the number
of passengers has reached the boat's maximum capacity. Then an additional boat was put into service,
and probably additional boats if and when passengers showed up. The operation was run very poorly,
but could be much improved if the operators had someone who enough English to keep passengers
informed.
Around 6:00pm, as it was getting dark, we arrived at the village of Pak Beng, which consists of
essentially one street lined with small guest houses and restaurants. Passengers (helping each other,
no help from the crew)) scrambled to get their bags ashore and up a stairway to the street above.
There was no announcement of when the boat would leave the following day. At the boat landing
there were a dozen or two local men and boys eager to handle the baggage and lead passengers to
guest houses. Virginia and I engaged a couple of local boys to help with our bags as we walked up
Pak Beng's street to our guesthouse.
essentially one street lined with small guest houses and restaurants. Passengers (helping each other,
no help from the crew)) scrambled to get their bags ashore and up a stairway to the street above.
There was no announcement of when the boat would leave the following day. At the boat landing
there were a dozen or two local men and boys eager to handle the baggage and lead passengers to
guest houses. Virginia and I engaged a couple of local boys to help with our bags as we walked up
Pak Beng's street to our guesthouse.
Pak Beng's main street viewed from balcony of the
Vatsana Guest House.
Vatsana Guest House.
Steps from Pak Beng boat landing to street.
We checked into the Vatsana Guest House, US$5, very basic, no private bath, but we figured that it
was for only one night and did not want to spend any more time and effort to look for something
better. An unusual feature of the shared bath was that it had a western-style toilet but no water
supply except for a bucket of water and dipper next to the toilet. Pak Beng's generator provided
electricity only from 6:00pm to 10:pm; that loud generator was very near our room so we were glad
when it stopped at 10:00pm.
was for only one night and did not want to spend any more time and effort to look for something
better. An unusual feature of the shared bath was that it had a western-style toilet but no water
supply except for a bucket of water and dipper next to the toilet. Pak Beng's generator provided
electricity only from 6:00pm to 10:pm; that loud generator was very near our room so we were glad
when it stopped at 10:00pm.
This might be a good place to talk about currency. The national currency of Laos is the kip. Around
10,750 kip equal one U.S. Dollar. Generally the kip is used for minor purchases such as taxis,
refreshment stands restaurants, while prices for more expensive items such as rooms and tours were
generally quoted and paid for in US$. Thai baht can be used in towns near the Thai border. US$ or
Euros can be easily converted to Lao kips but the reverse, is more difficult. Outside of Laos it is
impossible to change Lao kips into other currencies.
10,750 kip equal one U.S. Dollar. Generally the kip is used for minor purchases such as taxis,
refreshment stands restaurants, while prices for more expensive items such as rooms and tours were
generally quoted and paid for in US$. Thai baht can be used in towns near the Thai border. US$ or
Euros can be easily converted to Lao kips but the reverse, is more difficult. Outside of Laos it is
impossible to change Lao kips into other currencies.
The following morning, 8 December, we checked out of the Vatsana Guest House and started walking
down the street toward the boat landing. Along the way we met a fellow traveler we got to know as
John from Key West, who offered to carry our bags down the steps to the boat, an offer we
gratefully accepted. He and his friend Karina were on an eight month trip around the world: next
stop Borneo, then Bali or Vietnam. John and Karina sat behind us on the boat that day and we
enjoyed hearing about their travels. One of the best things about independent international travel
is the many interesting people you meet that way, both local residents and fellow travelers.
down the street toward the boat landing. Along the way we met a fellow traveler we got to know as
John from Key West, who offered to carry our bags down the steps to the boat, an offer we
gratefully accepted. He and his friend Karina were on an eight month trip around the world: next
stop Borneo, then Bali or Vietnam. John and Karina sat behind us on the boat that day and we
enjoyed hearing about their travels. One of the best things about independent international travel
is the many interesting people you meet that way, both local residents and fellow travelers.
Our boat finally left Pak Beng around 10:30am. Part of the delay was due to a dispute the boat
staff had with a passenger who had lost his ticket for the two-day boat trip, and the boat staff
trying to get the passenger to pay the fare again, even though there was no practical way to get to
Pak Beng except by boat (for which he would need to have bought a ticket; also, several passengers
remembered having seen him on the boat the day before. We are not sure how the confrontation was
settled, but the passenger was on the boat when we departed.
staff had with a passenger who had lost his ticket for the two-day boat trip, and the boat staff
trying to get the passenger to pay the fare again, even though there was no practical way to get to
Pak Beng except by boat (for which he would need to have bought a ticket; also, several passengers
remembered having seen him on the boat the day before. We are not sure how the confrontation was
settled, but the passenger was on the boat when we departed.
The boat trip the second day was as beautiful as the first, but in the late afternoon our views were
partially obstructed by a couple of passengers across the aisle who had rolled down their opaque
window drape to block the cool wind.
partially obstructed by a couple of passengers across the aisle who had rolled down their opaque
window drape to block the cool wind.
We arrived at Luang Prabang around 5:00pm and using a tuk-tuk taxi we checked several guest houses
who either had no vacant room with bath or were charging (for Laos) exorbitant rates. We finally
decided to stay in a basic but clean private-bathless-room at the Chaliny Guest House for one night
and the following morning change to a guest house with private baths. Had a good dinner at one of
the many restaurants on Luang Prabang's main street, and then to bed.
who either had no vacant room with bath or were charging (for Laos) exorbitant rates. We finally
decided to stay in a basic but clean private-bathless-room at the Chaliny Guest House for one night
and the following morning change to a guest house with private baths. Had a good dinner at one of
the many restaurants on Luang Prabang's main street, and then to bed.