Indochina Trip Comments
We were very glad to have the opportunity to learn first-hand about an area to which we
had never been before --- the Lao People's Democratic Republic, The Socialist Republic
of Vietnam, and The Kingdom of Cambodia (those are their official names).

Laos is a wonderful country to visit.  The two major "cities" are really two very relaxing
small towns with interesting palaces, many beautiful Buddhist temples, beautiful scenery
and  welcoming people..  There are just enough tourists (almost all European
backpackers)  to support of a few small hotels and guest houses, restaurants, and other
facilities for travelers.  In the two towns we visited it is hard to believe that during the
Vietnam-American War the USA dropped more bombs on Laos than were dropped in all
of Europe during World War II; the bombs on Laos were dropped mainly on the
countryside occupied by the Pathet Lao (Laotian Communist-led nationalists) and along the
Vietnamese border.

In Vietnam we very much enjoyed our visits to Halong Bay, Hue, Hoi An, and the Mekong
Delta.  Ho Chi Minh City and Saigon were very interesting but the noise and traffic in
those two cities was very stressful.   During our visit to Vietnam we were depressed by
the frequent reminders of  Vietnam's terrible suffering during the last half of the
1900's, for which the U.S. Government is held largely responsible.  

In Cambodia we greatly enjoyed our visits to the very extensive ruins of Angkor Wat, as
well as the nearby village of Siem Reap.  The boat trip from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap
was fun.   Although we avoided the "Killing Fields" and similar gruesome "tourist
attractions" we were frequently reminded of the  death and destruction in Cambodia
caused by American bombs and invasion, followed by the turmoil and genocide inflicted
by the Khmer Rouge (supported by the U.S.).

Throughout Indochina we could communicate with local people regarding basic matters
such as hotels, transportation, prices, etc., but because of language we could very
seldom carry on a real conversation with the locals.  However, almost everyone we met
was very welcoming and tried to be helpful.   No animosity was ever shown to us as
Americans, despite the many deaths and vast destruction inflicted on their countries
(and others) by the U.S. Government.

In all three countries we noted  the large number of young European and Australian
independent backpack travelers spending several months in the area, traveling on cheap
buses, staying at inexpensive guesthouses, and eating at low-priced restaurants and
roadside stands..   We enjoyed meeting many of them and hearing their stories.   The few
tour groups we saw were mainly Japanese and Chinese. We were almost always the only
Americans.

The only reservations we made before leaving home were for our transpacific flights,
for our first night in Bangkok (where we arrived around midnight), and for our sleeper
train from Bangkok the following evening.   Using guidebooks and the internet we had
researched our proposed trip and selected the places we wanted to visit and for each
location had noted what we wanted to see and do, and what which seemed to be our best
hotel choices.

We stayed in ten hotels or guest houses during our Indochina trip and had no
reservations except for our first hotel in Bangkok; yet all our first-choices had vacancies
except the Continental Hotel in Saigon, where we easily got into another good hotel on the
same block.  Similarly, we had no problem getting buses, excursion tickets, air
transportation, etc., although we usually bought tickets only a day or two in advance.   
However, because of the Tet Holidays in Vietnam we were unable to get  tickets for the
"Reunification Express" sleeper-train in which we had hoped to go from Hanoi to Hue and
from Hoi An to Saigon, and to take flights instead.

If you are considering a trip similar to ours, the main change we would suggest is that
instead of taking the sleeper train from Bangkok you take it to Chiang Mai, then bus to
Thaton, then long-tail boat to Chiang Rai, then bus to Chiang Kong, then ferry across the
Mekong to Huay Xai, then the two-day "slow boat" to Luang Prabang; from Luang Prabang
you could fly to Vientiane or instead take a bus with a stopover in Van Vieng.

Non-luxury travel in Indochina is very inexpensive.  It is easy to find basic hotel rooms
with bath for about US$10 per night, very pleasant rooms in the US$20 to US$30
range.  In restaurants full meals including a beverage average about US$3 per person,
but can be obtained for less at roadside stands. We used very inexpensive  
transportation of all kinds --- three-wheeled bicycle “cyclos”, two-wheel motorbike
“motos”, motorized three-wheeled “motorickshaws”, buses, motorboats, rowboats,
modified trucks, and cars.

We are very glad we took the trip!

This is the end of our travel journal for our January 2002 trip to Indochina.

This website also contains journals and photos of our trips to other interesting places.  
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