Lijiang – 8 to 12 October: At 10:30am on 8 October we took a public bus
from Dali to Lijiang, where we arrived at about 12:30pm. The road was good and
the scenery great, with high mountains and productive fields. With us on the bus
was the Dutch couple we had met on the Erhai Lake excursion; an American family
living in Thailand, a couple and their two daughters; also several other foreigners
and about twenty Chinese. Upon arrival at the Lijiang bus terminal we, the Dutch
couple and the American family living in Thailand took taxis to the border of
Lijiang’s touristic “Old Town”, where vehicles are not permitted. With our six
fellow-travelers we looked for Sanhe Naxi Binguan (a.k.a. "San He Hotel") which
we had some difficulty in locating as their sign outside the building was only in
Chinese. This very attractive little hotel is associated with the Camellia Hotel in
Kunming and with the Old Dali Inn No. 5 in Dali.

Entrance to our Lijiang hotel, the Sanhe Naxi Binguan (a.k.a. Sanhe Hotel).
We had a pleasant lunch and then took a nice walk in the extensive “Old Town”
with its cute old-style buildings, narrow winding pedestrian streets, and many
small canals, all very nice and clean. All very nice and quaint-looking, but with an
artificial feel which reminded me of Disneyland. Almost all buildings seem to be
occupied by tourist-restaurants, small hotels, and souvenir shops; there seemed
to be little evidence of many persons actually living there. Much of Lijiang was
destroyed by an earthquake in 1997 and most of the “Old Town” was then rebuilt
in the old style, thus maintaining its justifiable high popularity with Chinese
tourists. The part of Lijiang outside the "Old Town" looked contemporary.
Nearly everyone walking the streets of "Old Town" seemed to be a Chinese
tourist, many traveling in groups.
Typical Lijiang "Old Town" restaurant.
Lijiang "Old Town" pedestrian street.
Lake in Helongtan Gongyuan (Black Dragon Pool Park), Lijiang.
In Lijiang we visited the attractive Black Dragon Pool Park, where we heard a
musical presentation by costumed musicians. We also visited the Museum of Naxi
Dongba Culture, devoted to the largest minority group in the Lijiang area.
In the evening we went to a
performance of the
26-member Naxi Orchestra;
old musicians playing ancient
music on ancient
instruments. Their concert
was enjoyable; we bought a
CD of their performance
but it did not seem to sound
so good unless you saw the
musicians playing. The Naxi
is the largest ethnic group
in this part of Yunnan.
One of the highlights in Lijiang
was a visit to the Mu Family
Mansion, the former home of a
very wealthy family. The
“mansion” consisted of a large
compound with highly decorated
buildings in a garden surrounded
by a high wall, all very well
maintained and including several
interesting exhibits. Much of
the estate was on the slope of a
hill, with good views of Lijiang.
The Naxi Orchestra, Lijiang
The Mu Family Mansion, Lijiang.
Lijiang street laundry.