| Luang Prabang, Laos --- 9 to 13 Dec 2005 |
Paid the Chaliny Guest House US$5 for last night's room. The guest house was very neat, clean and
friendly but had no room with bath available.
Therefore we moved down the street a few houses into the View Khem Khong Guest House, where for
US$12 per night we got into a clean room with attached private bath. The guest house is on the
street (Th. Khem Khong) which runs along the bank of the Mekong. Across the street, along the edge
of the Mekong's embankment, are several outdoor restaurants/snackbars where we enjoyed eating at
tree-shaded tables while gazing at the Mekong and the opposite bank. One of those
restaurants/snackbars was operated by our guest house.
friendly but had no room with bath available.
Therefore we moved down the street a few houses into the View Khem Khong Guest House, where for
US$12 per night we got into a clean room with attached private bath. The guest house is on the
street (Th. Khem Khong) which runs along the bank of the Mekong. Across the street, along the edge
of the Mekong's embankment, are several outdoor restaurants/snackbars where we enjoyed eating at
tree-shaded tables while gazing at the Mekong and the opposite bank. One of those
restaurants/snackbars was operated by our guest house.
Building a boat across the street from our guest house
View Khem Khong Guest House, Luang Prabang, Laos
We had visited Luang Prabang in 2002 (see the "Indochina" section of this website) and were glad
to be back for a few days. Luang Prabang is a wonderful town: practically everything is within a
short walk, traffic is light, streets are paved and clean; the mighty Mekong offering scenic views and
boating opportunities; dozens of beautiful Buddhist temples;a former royal palace converted into an
excellent museum, nearby caves and waterfalls, many guest houses, restaurants and snack bars;
interesting markets; a relaxing atmosphere among friendly local people, many of whom can conduct
essential communications in basic English.
to be back for a few days. Luang Prabang is a wonderful town: practically everything is within a
short walk, traffic is light, streets are paved and clean; the mighty Mekong offering scenic views and
boating opportunities; dozens of beautiful Buddhist temples;a former royal palace converted into an
excellent museum, nearby caves and waterfalls, many guest houses, restaurants and snack bars;
interesting markets; a relaxing atmosphere among friendly local people, many of whom can conduct
essential communications in basic English.
A quiet lane near our guest house in Luang Prabang, Laos
Luang Prabang's main street viewed from sidewalk restaurant.
Our first "tourist attraction" visit in Luang Prabang on this trip was to Wat Xieng Thong, a beautiful
Buddhist temple/monastery complex. In addition to the usual beautiful gold-encrusted temple
exteriors and multi-tiered roofs, the exteriors of two chapels were covered with mosaic murals
depicting scenes of Lao rural life. Another unusual feature was a long shed containing racing canoes
about 50 ft. (17 mtrs.) long with space for at least forty paddlers (sitting on benches two-wide) and
still used for races during certain festivals.
Buddhist temple/monastery complex. In addition to the usual beautiful gold-encrusted temple
exteriors and multi-tiered roofs, the exteriors of two chapels were covered with mosaic murals
depicting scenes of Lao rural life. Another unusual feature was a long shed containing racing canoes
about 50 ft. (17 mtrs.) long with space for at least forty paddlers (sitting on benches two-wide) and
still used for races during certain festivals.
Doors at Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang
Wat Xieng Thong, Luang Prabang, Laos
On our way back from Wat Xieng Thong we were glad to run into our friends John and Karina, with
whom we had shared the boat ride from Pak Beng.
whom we had shared the boat ride from Pak Beng.
When we went to dinner at a main street restaurant we ran into (and had dinner with) Richard from
California, whom we had met when he was sitting across the aisle from us on the boat trip from Huay
Xai to Pak Beng. It is surprising how often during our independent travels on backpack trails we
repeatedly run into the same travelers.
California, whom we had met when he was sitting across the aisle from us on the boat trip from Huay
Xai to Pak Beng. It is surprising how often during our independent travels on backpack trails we
repeatedly run into the same travelers.
Now having the first relatively good bathroom in several days, we used it to shower and to give our
accumulated laundry the usual light washing.
accumulated laundry the usual light washing.
One of the attractions in Luang Prabang is Mount Phousi, a high hill in the center of town with several
interesting Buddhist shrines at the top and offering panoramic vistas in all directions. Looking down
at Luang Prabang you become more aware that it primarily consists of many small one-story to
three-story buildings surrounded by trees (especially coconut) and other vegetation. The climb is
easy, using a series of stairways. We walked up the west side of the hill, starting opposite the Royal
Palace, spent some time at the top, and then walked down the east side of the mount, examining
additional shrines and sculptures along the way. On the way down we again met our friend Richard,
with whom we had dinner the previous evening.
interesting Buddhist shrines at the top and offering panoramic vistas in all directions. Looking down
at Luang Prabang you become more aware that it primarily consists of many small one-story to
three-story buildings surrounded by trees (especially coconut) and other vegetation. The climb is
easy, using a series of stairways. We walked up the west side of the hill, starting opposite the Royal
Palace, spent some time at the top, and then walked down the east side of the mount, examining
additional shrines and sculptures along the way. On the way down we again met our friend Richard,
with whom we had dinner the previous evening.
Part of Luang Prabang and Mekong viewed from Mt. Phousi
Looking East from Mt. Phousi, Luang Prabang
Reclining Buddha sculpture on the eastern slope of Mt. Phousi
Face of reclining Buddha sculpture
Another interesting visit was to the former Royal Palace, now the National Museum. The museum
contains many of the original furnishings used by the Royal Family at the time they were expelled
when the Pathet Lao (Lao Communists) took over the entire country in 1975. In a theater on the
grounds of the National Museum we saw a traditional dance performance one evening.
contains many of the original furnishings used by the Royal Family at the time they were expelled
when the Pathet Lao (Lao Communists) took over the entire country in 1975. In a theater on the
grounds of the National Museum we saw a traditional dance performance one evening.
Masked Royal Ballet performance at the Royal Palace Theater
Sala Pha Bang shrine on the grounds of
the Royal Palace
the Royal Palace
After we walked down the eastern slope of Mt. Phousi we walked around the base in a clockwise
direction and stumbled upon the public library, which we then visited. Not many books, but a
hospitable librarian and a dozen or two children working jointly on an art project.
direction and stumbled upon the public library, which we then visited. Not many books, but a
hospitable librarian and a dozen or two children working jointly on an art project.
Children at Luang Prabang Public Library
Street in front of Public Library, In background is Mt.
Phousi with shrine at its peak
Phousi with shrine at its peak
As we had done on our previous stay in Luang Prabang we took a small boat across the Mekong and
took a walk on the other side, visiting a few of the small villages there.
took a walk on the other side, visiting a few of the small villages there.
Luang Prabang is a very popular destination for independent travelers, many of whom stay there for
weeks or months. It certainly is one of the most pleasant towns we have visited, a great place to go
back to.
weeks or months. It certainly is one of the most pleasant towns we have visited, a great place to go
back to.