Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng, Laos --- 14 Dec 2005
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After breakfast we went by tuk-tuk to the Luang Prabang South Bus Terminal for our mini-bus trip
to Vang Vieng. We had bought our tickets a couple of days earlier at a price of 95,000 kip (US$9)
each for a trip of five or six hours. Upon arrival at the terminal our bags were put on the roof of
the minibus, together with the baggage of our ten fellow passengers, all foreign travelers. Seated
next to the driver was a young German woman; in the next row was a German man with his Thai wife,
both of whom had come back to southeast Asia for a vacation; in the next row were William and
Yvonne, a gray-haired Dutch couple on an independent bicycling trip through Thailand and Laos (their
Dutch bikes were strapped to the top of the bus); Virginia and I (Eric) were in the next row; in the
last row was a Swiss man and two giddy young women giggling all the way, one a British/New
Zealander and the other Thai. On the folding seats on the right side of the bus sat a young British
couple.
Leaving Luang Prabang the scenery was very good, rolling hills and scattered farms and villages. The
scenery got even better the further south we went --- limestone mountains jutting sharply above the
flat river valleys. We drove through more than a dozen small villages and made two brief rest stops,
arriving in Vang Vieng about 4:00pm.
Gasoline station between Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng
Costumed street performers at minibus
reststop on way to Vang Vieng
We checked into the Sayson Guest House, US$6 per night with private bath. Most of the small room
was occupied by a king-size bed and a twin-size. We used the king to sleep on and the twin as a shelf
for our things. The best thing about the Sayson Guest House was the large balcony in back, from
which we got beautiful views of the adjacent Nam Song River and the scenic mountains beyond.
Sunset viewed from
balcony of the Sayson
Guest House, Vang
Vieng. Nam Song river
and footbridges in the
foreground.
View from balcony of the Sayson
Guest House, Vang Vieng. In the
foreground are the Nam Song
river and snack bars.
Took a short exploratory walk around Vang Vieng: came across the German/Thai couple we had met
on our bus; saw part of a volleyball-like game in which the players were allowed to use only their legs
and feet to propel the ball; noted that there were dozens of open-front restaurant/bars with
cushioned platforms from which diners/drinkers/smokers could watch recorded U.S. sitcoms on TV
screens with loud audio. The town had a kind of wild-west look with most streets unpaved, no
sidewalks, and many slow-paced construction projects.
Restaurant/bar with cushioned platforms
for viewing American sitcom videotapes
Street in Vang Vieng, Laos. Note
new hotel under construction.
Footbridges over the Nam Song river, Vang Vieng, Laos
Longtail boats on bank of the Nam Song river, Vang Vieng, Laos
The streets of Vang Vieng were peopled mostly by scruffy-looking but well-behaved young
backpackers generally from Europe or Australia/NewZealand, mostly young couples. We two were
always the oldest to be seen. Traveling together independently and inexpensively in underdeveloped
parts of the world is a severe test for any relationship, as many questions constantly arise requiring
compatible answers from two different persons. Why are we here? How long do we stay? Where
do we go next and how do we get there? Where will we eat? What will we eat? How much (and
which) baggage do we carry with us? Why are we living in this dump? Why are we paying so much?
Is this the best we can do? What are we going to do today? What about tomorrow? How long is
this trip going to last? Is it time to go home? It is amazing that relationships can survive under such
circumstances.