Luxor --- 6 to 8 March 2006
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Overseas Adventure Travels had booked us for a 6:15am flight from Cairo to Luxor, which
meant we had to get up about 4:00am. A later flight would have made it a more relaxing
vacation.
Upon arriving in Luxor after a one-hour flight we were bussed to Karnak, a very large
complex of temples in a good state of preservation. The most impressive of these temples is
devoted to the God Amun, incorporating a large hall with 134 enormous columns. Most of
Karnak was built by Queen Hatshepsut, who after the death of her husband adopted male
attire and took over as "king" of Egypt.
Eric & Virginia in Karnak Temple, Luxor, Egypt
Part of Karnak Temple, Luxor, Egypt. The small figure in the
right-center gives you an idea of the size of the columns.
One of the giant statues at Karnak, Luxor, Egypt
Bas-relief columns, Karnak Temple, Luxor, Egypt
We checked into the New Winter Palace Hotel. This hotel is in a large well-tended garden in
central Luxor, and almost next door to Luxor Temple.
Garden of the Winter Palace
Hotel, Luxor, Egypt
Like Karnak, Luxor Temple is very large and impressive. It is in an excellent state of
preservation, mainly because it was for many centuries buried in sand. All we've said about
Karnak applies equally to Luxor Temple. It is amazing to find two such ancient well-preserved
temples only about a mile (1.5km) apart.
In the late afternoon our group went for a "sail" on a felucca, a traditional sailboat used on
the Nile for thousands of years. Unfortunately, at the time of our "sail" there was
absolutely no wind, so our felucca and a couple of others were towed by a motorboat.
The main reason felucca have worked so well on the Nile for thousands of years is that the
river flows from south to north, while the prevailing winds are from north to south. Thus the
felucca can drift northward with the current, or sail south propelled by the prevailing winds.
The Nile has its sources in the rainforests of central Africa and flows north through Egypt
to the Mediterranean Sea. Egypt has practically no rainfall and its agriculture depends
almost entirely on irrigation from the Nile, resulting in a narrow strip of green vegetation
bordered by desert sands. That green strip is very narrow (almost non-existent) in the
extreme south of Egypt and gradually widens to about 20 miles (30km) wide near Cairo; from
there the agricultural area widens further in the fan-shaped Nile delta before entering the
Mediterranean.
The following day, 7 March, we had a pre-dawn motorboat ride across the Nile to the thinly
populated western shore, where we had breakfast in a setting decorated to mimic a rural tent.
The breakfast area was surrounded by bamboo frames hung with blankets designed to give
the feel of being in tent. Breakfast was prepared at our hotel and brought across the river.
The project was a bit of a sham.
After breakfast we visited the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens. These two
adjacent valleys near Luxor contain a total of more than a hundred tombs which originally were
hidden, had concealed entrances, and without monuments of any kind. The idea was to keep the
tombs and contents hidden to discourage looting. We entered three of the tombs through
entrances resembling mine-shafts. Inside the tombs were walls covered with hieroglyphics and
paintings, also sarcophagi.
In the late afternoon we took a walk through the beautiful garden of our hotel and then
continued our walk to the close-by Luxor Temple which was wonderfully illuminated. Upon
returning from the Luxor Temple we walked into the Old Winter Palace Hotel, built before
1900, all very ornate and formal in a Victorian way. Our own adjacent New Winter Palace
Hotel, built about 1965, is quite plain but shares the garden, pool, and other facilities with the
more luxurious Old Winter Palace Hotel.
The following day, 8 March, we visited the excellent Luxor Museum, giving us a better
understanding of ancient Egyptian civilization. The many beautiful artifacts were
magnificently displayed in this very modern museum.
Our next group activity was a visit to the souk, the market. Our tour escort/guide showed us
a shopping list for food items needed to prepare an Egyptian meal, and asked for volunteers to
buy one item. Virginia and I volunteered to shop for eight or nine large green peppers, which
we bought for five Egyptian pounds. Everyone had a fun time on this project interacting with
the market people.
About noon we boarded our Nile cruise ship, the "River Hathor" a nice-looking ship and
quite large considering it held only 32 passengers.