Ouro Preto, Brazil --- 31 Jan to 2 Feb 2006
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After breakfast at the Hotel Colonial we looked at two other guesthouses before coming to an
arrangement with Pouso Do Chico Rei: they have no double room with bath available for tonight but
we could immediately have a bathless double for 80 Reais (US$40) and then two additional nights in a
room with bath at 100 Reais (US$50) per night, including breakfasts. We agreed to that.
We liked Pouso Do Chico Rei. The guesthouse is in a charming colonial stone building on a
cobble-stoned street in the center of Ouro Preto, has lovely antiques in the reception, shared living
room, and breakfast areas, is well-maintained, and provides beautiful views from our windows,
There are about eight rooms. The owner/manager speaks some English, the two assistants none --- all
very friendly and helpful, great people to know.
Front of the Pouso Do Chico Rei
guesthouse, Ouro Preto, Brazil
Street in front of the Pouso Do Chico Rei guesthouse
View from the window of our room at the
Pouso Do Chico Rei guesthouse, Ouro Preto
Breakfast room at the Pouso Do Chico Rei guesthouse
Pouso Do Chico Rei translates as somewhat like "The Inn of King Chico". Chico Rei was a tribal king
in Africa who with his tribe was enslaved and brought to Brazil to work the mines. The story is that
he managed to buy his freedom, became wealthy, and then bought the freedom of the members of his
tribe who had been enslaved with him, thus becoming a legendary hero.
Ouro Preto (translates as "Black Gold") got its name from the black ore in which the gold was found
and mined. Ouro Preto was for long the capital of the state of Minas Gerais.. The historic town of
about 60,000 persons is 3900 feet (1200mtrs) above sea level, resulting in very pleasant
temperatures. Ouro Preto was built on steep slopes, and resembles many traditional Italian hill
towns.
Praca Tiradentes, the main square in Ouro Preto. Large
white building in background is the former Governor's Palace,
now the University's School of Mines.
Rua Direta, one of the principal
streets in Ouro Preto, Brazil
Panoramic view of Ouro Preto
At breakfast the following day we met some (possibly all) of our fellow guests: a Frenchman living
and working in Sao Paulo for a French music/computer firm; his wife; his infant child; his French
parents and in-laws; a Britisher, James, living and working in Rio; James' companion, Henry, a
correspondent for a leading American newspaper. Breakfast was good, and so was our conversation
with the English-speakers.
The first tourist attraction we visited in Ouro Preto was the "Museu Da Inconfidencia", located in
the former City Hall, featuring displays related to the early struggle for Brazilian independence.
Then we visited the church "Nossa Seinora Do Carmo" built around 1770, with an extremely ornate
interior. That church is across the street from our guesthouse.
Next came the Museu Do Oratorio, displaying very more than one hundred religious shrines
("oratorios") suitable for use in homes or when traveling. They dated from the 17th century to the
present.
Another museum visit was to the Museu Guignard featuring the life and works Alberto Da Vega
Guignard (1896 - 1962), considered a leading Brazilian painter and designer. Ouro Preto was his
primary home.
About 6:00pm we discovered that our bedside reading lights did not work. We reported the
problem and a staff member promptly came with two replacement bulbs, but still no light. The staff
member indicated that she thought the problem was in the wiring which she plans to have repaired.
We did not care if or when, as tomorrow we would be in a different room.
As agreed the previous day, our room was changed on one with a private bath, a refrigerator, a TV,
and more space,
After breakfast we went on an excursion to the "Mina Da Passagem" gold mine, about 10km from
Ouro Preto on the road to Mariana. When we mentioned to James and Henry that we were planning a
visit to the mine they said they would be headed for Mariana and offered to give us a lift to the
mine; we gladly accepted their offer.
With a Portuguese-speaking guide and a Brazilian tourist and his daughter we rode down a long
mineshaft in a cable-attached mine railcar. It was a very extensive mine, although only part of it was
open to the public; well-lit by hundreds of light bulbs, large underground rooms and tunnels, roofs
supported by pillars of rock, underground lakes, and some mining implements. Returning to the
surface, we visited a small mining museum and outdoor exhibits of mining equipment. The mine tour
cost us 17 Reais (US$8.50) per person.
Entrance to goldmine,
near Ouro Preto
In goldmine near Ouro Preto
Gold panning demonstration
In the afternoon we visited the"Casa Dos Contos" museum. The building was formerly used to
collect mining taxes, print paper money, and produce coins. All very extensive and very well
exhibited. There was also an excellent section devoted to scientific instruments.
Display of scientific instruments
in the Casa Dos Contos museum.
Another interesting visit was to the "Matriz De Nostra Senhora Do Pilar", the second most opulent
church in all of Brazil. The interior was extensively encrusted with hundreds of kilos of gold and
silver. Very impressive!
On the morning of our third (and last) day in Ouro Preto we had breakfast only with James and
Henry, as the other guests had checked out the previous day. Later our guesthouse owner/manager
joined us.
Our major visit on our last full day in Ouro Preto was to the large"Museo de Ciencia e Tecnica"
located in the School of Mines of the "Universdad Federal de Ouro Preto", in the former Governor's
Palace. This museum featured mining and geology; it also includes an extremely large and excellent
collection of gemstones in various stages, beautifully presented.