| Rio de Janeiro to Paraty --- 22 Jan 2006 |
Our group tour of Chile, Argentina and Brazil ended with breakfast at the Sheraton Rio Hotel on
Sunday 22 January 2006.
Around 9:00am we checked out of the hotel and with our bags walked to the street in front of the
hotel and got into a taxi to Rodoviaria Novo Rio (Rio's main bus terminal), a ride of about twenty
minutes, and bought tickets for the next bus to Paraty, departing about thirty minutes later.
Sunday 22 January 2006.
Around 9:00am we checked out of the hotel and with our bags walked to the street in front of the
hotel and got into a taxi to Rodoviaria Novo Rio (Rio's main bus terminal), a ride of about twenty
minutes, and bought tickets for the next bus to Paraty, departing about thirty minutes later.
Paraty enjoyed great prosperity from around 1700 to about 1800 during which it was the main port
for the export of gold, silver, and other minerals mined in the interior, and was also the principal
gateway for the import of luxury goods. Around 1800 a road was built connecting the mining areas
with the much better natural port of Rio de Janeiro, causing Paraty to lose its economic importance.
for the export of gold, silver, and other minerals mined in the interior, and was also the principal
gateway for the import of luxury goods. Around 1800 a road was built connecting the mining areas
with the much better natural port of Rio de Janeiro, causing Paraty to lose its economic importance.
Paraty then stagnated until about 1950 when the colonial atmosphere combined with beautiful
scenery, excellent beaches and good fishing began to attract visitors from the large metropolitan
centers of Sao Paulo and Rio, each about a four hours' drive from Paraty. The town now has a
population of about 20,000 and seems to have a good tourist-oriented economy.
scenery, excellent beaches and good fishing began to attract visitors from the large metropolitan
centers of Sao Paulo and Rio, each about a four hours' drive from Paraty. The town now has a
population of about 20,000 and seems to have a good tourist-oriented economy.
During the first hour or so of our busride we drove west through Rio suburbs and nearby towns, the
scenery becoming increasingly rural, forested, and hilly. After a couple of hours the road started
following the hilly terrain along the coast, with idyllic views of bays, beaches, cliffs and islands.
scenery becoming increasingly rural, forested, and hilly. After a couple of hours the road started
following the hilly terrain along the coast, with idyllic views of bays, beaches, cliffs and islands.
Another view from the bus on the way to Party
A view from the bus on the way from Rio to Paraty
After four pleasant hours on the road, at about 3:00pm, our bus arrived at the bus station in Paraty,
where we took a taxi to "Solar dos Geranios" (House of the Geraniums). The guesthouse was built
about 1750. The lobby and breakfast areas were largely furnished with antique furnishings which
appear to have been in the house for many decades and possibly centuries --- desks, tables, chests,
bureaus, an old manual typewriter, framed paintings and photographs, bookcases, bulky chests, old
posters, stacks of old magazines and books. The guest house is owned and operated by two sisters,
Elizabeth and Margaret, who inherited the guesthouse from their Swiss/Hungarian parents about
thirty years ago.
where we took a taxi to "Solar dos Geranios" (House of the Geraniums). The guesthouse was built
about 1750. The lobby and breakfast areas were largely furnished with antique furnishings which
appear to have been in the house for many decades and possibly centuries --- desks, tables, chests,
bureaus, an old manual typewriter, framed paintings and photographs, bookcases, bulky chests, old
posters, stacks of old magazines and books. The guest house is owned and operated by two sisters,
Elizabeth and Margaret, who inherited the guesthouse from their Swiss/Hungarian parents about
thirty years ago.
"Solar dos Geranios" guesthouse.
Our room is one flight up, second
facing window/door from the left
Our room is one flight up, second
facing window/door from the left
Our room in the "Solar dos Geranios"
guesthouse, facing the green town square.
guesthouse, facing the green town square.
Wall of the Breakfast Room of
"Solar dos Geranios" guesthouse.
"Solar dos Geranios" guesthouse.
Our small room, one flight up, a ceiling fan (no A/C), a very basic attached bath, and a mini balcony
with an excellent view of the landscaped town square and adjoining colonial buildings including
Paraty's main church. The room cost 70 Reais (US$35) per night including breakfast.
with an excellent view of the landscaped town square and adjoining colonial buildings including
Paraty's main church. The room cost 70 Reais (US$35) per night including breakfast.
View from our balcony, looking toward our left.
The park-like area is the town square.
The park-like area is the town square.
View from our balcony, looking toward our right.
These buildings are private houses and guesthouses.
These buildings are private houses and guesthouses.
Paraty has a central historic zone of about a dozen square blocks dominated by colonial buildings;
that area has been designated a historic zone, no vehicles allowed. When we took the taxi from the
bus station to our guesthouse the taxi had to park a block or two away; the driver helped us roll our
luggage to the guest house. Deliveries to businesses in the historic zone are made with pushcarts or
horse-drawn wagons; the streets are paved with roughly cut stones.
that area has been designated a historic zone, no vehicles allowed. When we took the taxi from the
bus station to our guesthouse the taxi had to park a block or two away; the driver helped us roll our
luggage to the guest house. Deliveries to businesses in the historic zone are made with pushcarts or
horse-drawn wagons; the streets are paved with roughly cut stones.
Firewood delivery near our guesthouse
Panoramic view of Paraty, the bay, and islands
We took a short walk around town and had a combo lunch/dinner in a restaurant where the waiter
happened to be from Uruguay and spoke Spanish, which we speak. Unfortunately we are unable to
speak Portuguese, despite our Portuguese surname.
happened to be from Uruguay and spoke Spanish, which we speak. Unfortunately we are unable to
speak Portuguese, despite our Portuguese surname.
Paraty Bay at dusk
A church in Paraty at dusk